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| The Knowledge HVS 5a** |
Another day of work, another evening to go climb :)
This time, we explore the massive cliffs at Rubha
Hunish. A magical landscape of
derelict crofting buildings, coastguard looks outs and evidence of an ancient
farm and fishing industry.
The Scoop, jumps out as a must climb. Snaking up the left arête of the cliff,
this route has it all, overhangs, cracks, slabs and a soaring arête in a
stunning position. We both enjoy
the route on perfect rock.
As we climb it, we notice an awesome overhang on the main
face with promising break in it. “I
wonder who has wriggled up through there”. Back at the base, we consult the guide and size up the
route. The Knowledge, is its name
and we step up to the challenge.
Easy climbing leads to the overhang. An exciting combination of bridging, fist jamming and breath
holding sees me through to bring up Emma.
I continue out left onto the arête again, however this time, traverse
right to make an airy unprotected reach to the final hold. Awesome!
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| 2245 at the top of the climb :( |
Two great climbs, now just an easy VS to carry out bags up
was required. The climb promised “a soaring arete line in a stunning position". As I
inch up the first pitch, I pass loose hold after loose hold. I place gear in hollow cracks and
flakes and slowly my composure vanishes.
Images of me hugging a detached rock as I fly back from the face, in a
gear popping calamity race through my head. I lose it. It
takes me one hour thirty to lead the thirty meter pitch, finally slumping at
the belay, on an admiralty cool saddle protruding from the main face. My watch reads 2230 as belay Emma up
shivering and doubting my cracked belay bollard.
Emma enjoyed it just as much as me. We summon a burst of
enthusiasm to get up the final crack, which on a normal day would be a joy to
lead. Not today. We coil the ropes and race back to the
car arriving at 2315, feeling pretty sorry for ourselves. In the car we both feel pretty
disheartened and the last thing we want to do again is climb.
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