Le Tour de North Wales

Plans for a catch up with Charlie Beard had been simmering for a while and with the good weather we had to go for it.  I meet Charlie on the 0248 train to Holyhead and half asleep, get thrust a scrap of paper with a rather ambitious tick list on.

Day 1 - First up, Gogarth.  The beautiful and atmospheric crags towers 100m over the rippling seas and as the sun beats down we start up the first climb.  'Cordon Bleu' is a great introduction.  The HVS weaves across the Main Wall and with stunning exposure, we soon realise how much climbing there is to be done here.

Day 2,3 - We spend 3 days here climbing some of the best lines on the cliffs.  We really enjoy Gogarth E1 5b, where the fierce final pitch ejectes my first attempt, spitting me off into a dramatic 8 meter fall.  Then over in the Wen Zawn, 'Wen' cuts straight up the cliff providing incredible HVS climbing and of course 'A Dream of White Horses' definitely lives up to its awesome reputation.  The final traverse over the huge cave in a stunning situation is hard to beat.

Charlie seconding up the stupendous slab pitch of 'A Dream of White Horses' HVS 5a

The iconic setting of 'A Dream Of White Horses' in the incredible Wen Zawn.  I have a new favorite climb :)

We could spend the whole trip here but know that there is more to North Wales than just Gogarth.  We catch a ride to the Llanberis pass and camp in the thick of it.  Dinas Mot towers looms over us, whilst Dinas Cromlech stands tall in front with the famous corner shouting for attention.

Day 4 - As the sun beats down, we seek shade on the N facing Dinas Mot.  A really friendly atmosphere of climbers huddle at the base, whilst teams set off up on the wonderfully molded routes.  We get two lovely routes done and as we chat to the others, our N. Wales to do list slowly grows...

Day 5 - The next day we decide a beasting is in order.  Enchainment day.  Llanberis is perfectly suited for linking routes as crags litter the hill side.  We carve a stunning line from valley floor to Crib Goch via 5 routes including the "lonely and atmospheric" 'The Wall' E1 5a, on Diffwys Ddu.

Trying to get stuck into the awesome offwidth of the 1920's classic VS, Fallen Block Crack on the Enchainment day. 

Charlie displaying a fine example of 'The Egyptian' summit pose after wedging his way up, Fallen Block Crack.

Dashing along Crib Goch to squeeze in "just one more" climb to the awesome day.

Day 6 - Waking up in the pass with the sun creeping over the towering valley sides, you can't not notice the stunning rock on Dinas Cromlech.  A crag steeped in history.   In the early 50s, Joe Brown put up the stunning E1s; Cenotaph Corner and Cemetery Gates.  Later, Ron Fawcett, the Ron Bergundy of climbing, added the incredible 'Lord of the Flys E6' to the ever growing list of classics.

Smiles galore at the top of 'Cemetery Gates'

We want a taste of this history so jump on the two Joe Brown classics.  I lead Cemetery Gates, which turns out to be my first clean E1 and Charlie fires up Cenotaph Corner.  Both, as good as you would expect from Joe Brown routes with smiles aplenty at the top.

Charlie breezing up 'Cenotaph Corner' before reaching the sting in the tail.

Day 7 - A real taste of North Wales.  After the excitement if the recent Indian face accents I was keen to have a climb on the crag.  Clogwyn Dd'r Arddu nestles under Snowdon and after all this dry weather, was in perfect condition for an assault.  An early start meant we could relax at the crag and soak up all of its history and incredible atmosphere.  We jump on two classic E1s.  Vember, starts with a cool jamming crack and overlooks the Indian Face, so gazing down of the blank slab is incredibly inspiring.  Up next is Lithrig. We discover its only highlight is a blankish 5c traverse, but it does provide other excitement.

Below, a lonely figure strides up to the base of the crag and armed with rock boots and a chalk bag, makes his way effortlessly up a nearby climb.  Charlie recognizes the figure as no less than Johnny Dawes, of Indian Face fame.  We relish the moment and finish the climb.  Back in Pete's Eats, who should we eat our jacket potato with, but Johnny again.  We have a great chat, buy his book, and he sets off.  Later, as night falls, we start to hitch home.  A BMW pulls up and our faces beam.  Of course, the trip ends with a lift from Johnny.  We tear off and breakneck speed and modern jazz pulsing to cover up the wheel screech as we tear round corners arriving at Betws y Coed in moments.

Great end to a great trip.

Cloggy in all its glory.