A Singapore Photo Bomb

During my nine hour stop over in Singapore I decided to make the most of it, armed with £4, I hit the town to see where my fortune would take me.

After blowing £2.35 on a return MRT ticket, I jostled with the crowds to get on the incredibly efficient Metro

First stop was the Mandarin Orchard Hotel.  Previously I have enjoyed a complementary/cheeky shower in the  prestigious Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Hong Kong so a step up was required.  I nosed around the stunning ball room,  strolled out on the tennis court before setting eyes on this island of paradise.  I stripped down to my pants in front of a  "buoyant" Korean man and enjoyed a thirty minute swim and shower.  The perfect way to relax between flights. 

After all of that exercise, it was time to get some food and blow some cash.  These tasty steamed red bean roles set me  back a whopping £1.10 and were worth every penny

I continued walking down the street, with no particular goal, until I saw an escalator, dragging people up and off the streets, up the side of this colossal building.  I ventured up five of these seemingly endless tracks, snaking up the Orchard Central Mall's exterior, eventually greeted by a fascinating sight of old and new Singapore. 

On the roof top of the Orchard Central Mall was this vibrant artwork by Yayoi Kusama,
entitled "Lets Go to a Paradise of Glorious Tulips".  I loved the incredible glossy
colors, especially with the back drop of the bustling city, giving a really positive, fun
and relaxing feeling.

Once totally covered in primary jungle, this 60 island city slowly encroaches on what green space is left. 

Modern architecture, part of the forth largest financial center in the world.

I was surprised to hear almost everyone on the train speaking English even after exactly 50 years of independence from
 the British.  The rush hour train back to the airport was certainly cosy.

We Came, We Saw, We Conquered!

With low water in Sabah and only a few days before the leg two boys fly home, we decided some tourism was justifiable.

Our target, the huge mountain that we have been driving round and paddling off for the past two months. Mount Kinabalu, the highest mountain in Borneo, stands 4095m above sea level and dominates the surrounding UNESCO World Heritage site. The area hosts many incredible species including the endangered Orangutan making it “among the most important biological sites in the world".

The iconic summit of Mount Kinabalu rising out of the clouds.

Our tactic was a two day assault, including a night in a mountain hut and a summit sunrise. Nick and Jonny set off late on Thursday, confidently striding past fellow mountaineers reaching our luxurious mountain hut after three hours. We gorged ourselves on the enormous buffet, until we couldn't fit in any more mee goreng (fried noodles) or banana fritters in and staggered to bed ready for our summit bid.

A step up from Scottish bothies.

We woke at 0230h and partook in another overly indulgent buffet experience before hitting the trail at 0330h.

A bleary eyed 0330h start after a gigantic pre-summit buffet feast.

We donned headlights with Marcello and started off into the dark. Soon enough, we reached the line of other summiteers and added our head torches to the chain, snaking its way up 825m to the summit. We passed the tree line and began eating up the kilometers over the incredible smooth granite bedrock covering the mountain.

Tricky night nav. on Mount Kinabalu

The summit came into view as the wind battered our unprepared, equatorial accustomed bodies. We donned the bedding that we had ‘liberated’ from the mountain hut and felt very inadequate next to the hundred or so others kitted out in duvet jackets which wouldn’t have looked out of place in the arctic.

Kit aside, we had made it, and witnessed a stunning sunrise from the summit. Cloud filled the valleys below as we soaked up the incredibly barren summit finding time for a couple of obligatory summit poses.

The "Over-Under" defined as the "Pinnacle of summit poses".  Note bed linnin.

The Tea Set

Amazing sunrise looking across the vast granite plateau.

It was great to have climbed Mount Kinabalu and in doing so met lots of other travelers from around the world. Hearing all of their stories was great and makes our trip feel even more special. We are experiencing so much more of Borneo than the typical tourist, solely because we like sitting in big plastic pointy things :).

Mission accomplished with a little help from our trusty guide, Marcelo.

Blowpipes, flashfloods and some very friendly people.

The second month of the rolling expedition kicked off well with Nick Bennit, Patrick Clissold and Tom Haywood joining me to paddle the classics from the previous month. 

Nick storming on of the wonderful rapids on the Tolokosan

With a bit of boating under our belt, we decided to have a punt at a 60km gorge littered with rapids marked on a 1980’s pilotage chart.  The river slices through the Mulu national park, designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site which houses the extremely rare, Sun Bear, Pigmy Elephant, Orangutan and also the largest cave system in the world! We used a traditional long boat to enter the park, then hired a powerful 4x4 to claw our way up to the get-on.  The river dished out huge whirlpools, unpredictable boils, and a terrifying seven meter river rise overnight.  After speaking to indigenous people on the way down, the crux 30km gorge was out of the question.  Water disappearing underground, unportageable waterfalls and two recent fatalities made the decision easy.  This trip was special because we often encountered indigenous tribesmen.  Nomadic until the 1980’s, they still hunt wild boar, bare-foot, wielding their deadly blowpipes, clad in loin cloths and draped in stunning jewellery.  Although the river wasn’t world class, these precious memories made this mission my favourite.

Two village elders just off on a two day hunting trip for Wild Boar

Accessing river in the jungle require some fairly awesome logistics.

With water unprecedently high, we headed back into the hills above Lawas, Sarawak, to jump on a previously scouted multiday.  The river started slowly, through incredible scenery, bursting with inquisitive monkeys and majestic birds surveying overhead.  Eventually the river gorged in, as the gradient picked up, forming some awesome grade 4/5 kayaking, just what we needed.  After a relaxed night in the hammocks, the river quietened before a final 10km of stunning boulder garden rapids.  Locals warned us of a waterfall plunging into a crocodile infested plunge pool further down, so we hopped off with huge grins, after an awesome couple of days of adventure.

Our home for the night before a flash flood caused the river to rise into our camp and a frantic uphill migration.

One of the many fine rapids in the Trusan Gorge

During the month of scouting rivers, we couldn't help but notice the devastating environmental damage caused by the immense logging industry:  enormous palm oil plantations, ruined water supplies, as well as a loss of spiritual connection for the indigenous are just the start.  Unfortunately, most of the economic gain is funnelled into a few big pockets, so that the indigenous land owners are forced to abandon traditions and move to the cities.

Mass deforestation followed by vast palm oil plantations supplying 85% of the worlds palm oil.

A bustling logging camp.

One thing that I hope we never forget from the trip is the unrelenting Malay hospitality.  Along every river bank we were met with incredible generosity:  offers to put us up, lifts to get-ons, free tanks of fuel and enough wild boar to sink our Everests (nearly), all on the good-will account, as they nicely put it.

The long house chief giving us some vital information about a nearby river.

As a little end of trip treat, we joined the tourist trail and climbed the highest mountain in Borneo.  Mount Kinabalu towers 4095m over the jungle and is protected by UNESCO World Heritage Status.

A fine example of the 'Over-Under' on Mt. Kinabalu.

The last couple of days were spent coaching the next generation of Malaysian kayakers.  The Riverbugs raft guys are super keen to get in kayaks and hope to start coaching others soon.  They couldn't wait to get their hands on our boats at the end of the trip.

Keep your eyes on the blog for the final leg’s mission into the wild Indonesian jungle.

Le Tour de North Wales

Plans for a catch up with Charlie Beard had been simmering for a while and with the good weather we had to go for it.  I meet Charlie on the 0248 train to Holyhead and half asleep, get thrust a scrap of paper with a rather ambitious tick list on.

Day 1 - First up, Gogarth.  The beautiful and atmospheric crags towers 100m over the rippling seas and as the sun beats down we start up the first climb.  'Cordon Bleu' is a great introduction.  The HVS weaves across the Main Wall and with stunning exposure, we soon realise how much climbing there is to be done here.

Day 2,3 - We spend 3 days here climbing some of the best lines on the cliffs.  We really enjoy Gogarth E1 5b, where the fierce final pitch ejectes my first attempt, spitting me off into a dramatic 8 meter fall.  Then over in the Wen Zawn, 'Wen' cuts straight up the cliff providing incredible HVS climbing and of course 'A Dream of White Horses' definitely lives up to its awesome reputation.  The final traverse over the huge cave in a stunning situation is hard to beat.

Charlie seconding up the stupendous slab pitch of 'A Dream of White Horses' HVS 5a

The iconic setting of 'A Dream Of White Horses' in the incredible Wen Zawn.  I have a new favorite climb :)

We could spend the whole trip here but know that there is more to North Wales than just Gogarth.  We catch a ride to the Llanberis pass and camp in the thick of it.  Dinas Mot towers looms over us, whilst Dinas Cromlech stands tall in front with the famous corner shouting for attention.

Day 4 - As the sun beats down, we seek shade on the N facing Dinas Mot.  A really friendly atmosphere of climbers huddle at the base, whilst teams set off up on the wonderfully molded routes.  We get two lovely routes done and as we chat to the others, our N. Wales to do list slowly grows...

Day 5 - The next day we decide a beasting is in order.  Enchainment day.  Llanberis is perfectly suited for linking routes as crags litter the hill side.  We carve a stunning line from valley floor to Crib Goch via 5 routes including the "lonely and atmospheric" 'The Wall' E1 5a, on Diffwys Ddu.

Trying to get stuck into the awesome offwidth of the 1920's classic VS, Fallen Block Crack on the Enchainment day. 

Charlie displaying a fine example of 'The Egyptian' summit pose after wedging his way up, Fallen Block Crack.

Dashing along Crib Goch to squeeze in "just one more" climb to the awesome day.

Day 6 - Waking up in the pass with the sun creeping over the towering valley sides, you can't not notice the stunning rock on Dinas Cromlech.  A crag steeped in history.   In the early 50s, Joe Brown put up the stunning E1s; Cenotaph Corner and Cemetery Gates.  Later, Ron Fawcett, the Ron Bergundy of climbing, added the incredible 'Lord of the Flys E6' to the ever growing list of classics.

Smiles galore at the top of 'Cemetery Gates'

We want a taste of this history so jump on the two Joe Brown classics.  I lead Cemetery Gates, which turns out to be my first clean E1 and Charlie fires up Cenotaph Corner.  Both, as good as you would expect from Joe Brown routes with smiles aplenty at the top.

Charlie breezing up 'Cenotaph Corner' before reaching the sting in the tail.

Day 7 - A real taste of North Wales.  After the excitement if the recent Indian face accents I was keen to have a climb on the crag.  Clogwyn Dd'r Arddu nestles under Snowdon and after all this dry weather, was in perfect condition for an assault.  An early start meant we could relax at the crag and soak up all of its history and incredible atmosphere.  We jump on two classic E1s.  Vember, starts with a cool jamming crack and overlooks the Indian Face, so gazing down of the blank slab is incredibly inspiring.  Up next is Lithrig. We discover its only highlight is a blankish 5c traverse, but it does provide other excitement.

Below, a lonely figure strides up to the base of the crag and armed with rock boots and a chalk bag, makes his way effortlessly up a nearby climb.  Charlie recognizes the figure as no less than Johnny Dawes, of Indian Face fame.  We relish the moment and finish the climb.  Back in Pete's Eats, who should we eat our jacket potato with, but Johnny again.  We have a great chat, buy his book, and he sets off.  Later, as night falls, we start to hitch home.  A BMW pulls up and our faces beam.  Of course, the trip ends with a lift from Johnny.  We tear off and breakneck speed and modern jazz pulsing to cover up the wheel screech as we tear round corners arriving at Betws y Coed in moments.

Great end to a great trip.

Cloggy in all its glory.

Goodbye Skye. Hello Gogarth :)

My six weeks of work for Whitewave has come to an end and it has been great.  I have meet lots of great people and managed to get a decent amount of climbing in.  Here are a few shots from my last week.

Camping in Glen Brittle with a youth residential group.

An evening of fishing in Loch Brittle

Awesome morning clouds over the ridge

Sea kayaking with four French folk round the North end of Skye.

The flattest waters I have ever paddled on.  We saw thousands of tiny bio-luminescent jelly fish and two seals :)

Kilt rock... at last

Final evening of climbing in Skye and it had to be at Kilt Rock.  Such a classic spot that we had not made it too.  We had our eyes on The Electric Bagpipe and Grey Panther but they were bigger than our bellies.  It was great to just get one climb done in such an awesome place :)

Emma pulling through the final moves of Grey Panther, HVS***

Classic Kilt Rock in the background

Lovely sunset over the Quraing

First trad fall :)

Rubha Hunish is becoming a great evening crag, and with only a few free evenings left at Whitewave, Emma and I are trying to tick off all the multipitch classics.

We eye up the climb of the crag, Master of Morgana, and get stuck into it.

Eying up Master of Morgana, HVS 5b***

The first pitch ambles past a small bulge to belay below a stunning series of cracks.  It is the first 5b for both of us so the slightly overhung cracks above seem a little daunting.  Tentatively, I lead off and jam my way through the crux to the final move which involves a "grapple with the final crack above".  I love the feeling of tension as you climb through the crux which all evaporates as you find that huge final jug.

Emma, eyeing up the 'grapple'

Emma getting to gips with her grapple.

We had one final multipitch to do at the crag which was an HVS on the right wall.  The start had some great juggy, if a bit loose holds to get going on, then I reached a Fulmer guarding her chicks.  Hmmm.  I decided to cut left and was faced with a pretty steep, footless face.  Gear in, rest, and go.  All good, then got to rubbish hands, no feet with pump starting to kick in.  I faff and fumble then the inevitable, a decent 6m whipper off and away.  It was actually pretty cool to have a good, long, first trad fall on a steep wall.  No problemo.  Tried again and same happened so decided to lower off and retrieve the gear.

Lovely hands after lowering off

Quick hike up to the top, built a belay and abbed in only to see my gear on the butress to the left.  Brilliant.  Walked back up for another shot, this time on target but the rope dropped and coiled onto the friendly Fulmer's nest.  So after some gentile rope retrieving, the gear was removed and back to the car we headed.

Fulmer guarding her chicks.