Saturday 6 July 2013

First trad fall :)

Rubha Hunish is becoming a great evening crag, and with only a few free evenings left at Whitewave, Emma and I are trying to tick off all the multipitch classics.

We eye up the climb of the crag, Master of Morgana, and get stuck into it.
Eying up Master of Morgana, HVS 5b***
The first pitch ambles past a small bulge to belay below a stunning series of cracks.  It is the first 5b for both of us so the slightly overhung cracks above seem a little daunting.  Tentatively, I lead off and jam my way through the crux to the final move which involves a "grapple with the final crack above".  I love the feeling of tension as you climb through the crux which all evaporates as you find that huge final jug.
Emma, eyeing up the 'grapple'
Emma getting to gips with her grapple.
We had one final multipitch to do at the crag which was an HVS on the right wall.  The start had some great juggy, if a bit loose holds to get going on, then I reached a Fulmer guarding her chicks.  Hmmm.  I decided to cut left and was faced with a pretty steep, footless face.  Gear in, rest, and go.  All good, then got to rubbish hands, no feet with pump starting to kick in.  I faff and fumble then the inevitable, a decent 6m whipper off and away.  It was actually pretty cool to have a good, long, first trad fall on a steep wall.  No problemo.  Tried again and same happened so decided to lower off and retrieve the gear.

Lovely hands after lowering off
Quick hike up to the top, built a belay and abbed in only to see my gear on the butress to the left.  Brilliant.  Walked back up for another shot, this time on target but the rope dropped and coiled onto the friendly Fulmer's nest.  So after some gentile rope retrieving, the gear was removed and back to the car we headed.
Fulmer guarding her chicks.

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