Le Tour de North Wales

Plans for a catch up with Charlie Beard had been simmering for a while and with the good weather we had to go for it.  I meet Charlie on the 0248 train to Holyhead and half asleep, get thrust a scrap of paper with a rather ambitious tick list on.

Day 1 - First up, Gogarth.  The beautiful and atmospheric crags towers 100m over the rippling seas and as the sun beats down we start up the first climb.  'Cordon Bleu' is a great introduction.  The HVS weaves across the Main Wall and with stunning exposure, we soon realise how much climbing there is to be done here.

Day 2,3 - We spend 3 days here climbing some of the best lines on the cliffs.  We really enjoy Gogarth E1 5b, where the fierce final pitch ejectes my first attempt, spitting me off into a dramatic 8 meter fall.  Then over in the Wen Zawn, 'Wen' cuts straight up the cliff providing incredible HVS climbing and of course 'A Dream of White Horses' definitely lives up to its awesome reputation.  The final traverse over the huge cave in a stunning situation is hard to beat.

Charlie seconding up the stupendous slab pitch of 'A Dream of White Horses' HVS 5a

The iconic setting of 'A Dream Of White Horses' in the incredible Wen Zawn.  I have a new favorite climb :)

We could spend the whole trip here but know that there is more to North Wales than just Gogarth.  We catch a ride to the Llanberis pass and camp in the thick of it.  Dinas Mot towers looms over us, whilst Dinas Cromlech stands tall in front with the famous corner shouting for attention.

Day 4 - As the sun beats down, we seek shade on the N facing Dinas Mot.  A really friendly atmosphere of climbers huddle at the base, whilst teams set off up on the wonderfully molded routes.  We get two lovely routes done and as we chat to the others, our N. Wales to do list slowly grows...

Day 5 - The next day we decide a beasting is in order.  Enchainment day.  Llanberis is perfectly suited for linking routes as crags litter the hill side.  We carve a stunning line from valley floor to Crib Goch via 5 routes including the "lonely and atmospheric" 'The Wall' E1 5a, on Diffwys Ddu.

Trying to get stuck into the awesome offwidth of the 1920's classic VS, Fallen Block Crack on the Enchainment day. 

Charlie displaying a fine example of 'The Egyptian' summit pose after wedging his way up, Fallen Block Crack.

Dashing along Crib Goch to squeeze in "just one more" climb to the awesome day.

Day 6 - Waking up in the pass with the sun creeping over the towering valley sides, you can't not notice the stunning rock on Dinas Cromlech.  A crag steeped in history.   In the early 50s, Joe Brown put up the stunning E1s; Cenotaph Corner and Cemetery Gates.  Later, Ron Fawcett, the Ron Bergundy of climbing, added the incredible 'Lord of the Flys E6' to the ever growing list of classics.

Smiles galore at the top of 'Cemetery Gates'

We want a taste of this history so jump on the two Joe Brown classics.  I lead Cemetery Gates, which turns out to be my first clean E1 and Charlie fires up Cenotaph Corner.  Both, as good as you would expect from Joe Brown routes with smiles aplenty at the top.

Charlie breezing up 'Cenotaph Corner' before reaching the sting in the tail.

Day 7 - A real taste of North Wales.  After the excitement if the recent Indian face accents I was keen to have a climb on the crag.  Clogwyn Dd'r Arddu nestles under Snowdon and after all this dry weather, was in perfect condition for an assault.  An early start meant we could relax at the crag and soak up all of its history and incredible atmosphere.  We jump on two classic E1s.  Vember, starts with a cool jamming crack and overlooks the Indian Face, so gazing down of the blank slab is incredibly inspiring.  Up next is Lithrig. We discover its only highlight is a blankish 5c traverse, but it does provide other excitement.

Below, a lonely figure strides up to the base of the crag and armed with rock boots and a chalk bag, makes his way effortlessly up a nearby climb.  Charlie recognizes the figure as no less than Johnny Dawes, of Indian Face fame.  We relish the moment and finish the climb.  Back in Pete's Eats, who should we eat our jacket potato with, but Johnny again.  We have a great chat, buy his book, and he sets off.  Later, as night falls, we start to hitch home.  A BMW pulls up and our faces beam.  Of course, the trip ends with a lift from Johnny.  We tear off and breakneck speed and modern jazz pulsing to cover up the wheel screech as we tear round corners arriving at Betws y Coed in moments.

Great end to a great trip.

Cloggy in all its glory.

Goodbye Skye. Hello Gogarth :)

My six weeks of work for Whitewave has come to an end and it has been great.  I have meet lots of great people and managed to get a decent amount of climbing in.  Here are a few shots from my last week.

Camping in Glen Brittle with a youth residential group.

An evening of fishing in Loch Brittle

Awesome morning clouds over the ridge

Sea kayaking with four French folk round the North end of Skye.

The flattest waters I have ever paddled on.  We saw thousands of tiny bio-luminescent jelly fish and two seals :)

Kilt rock... at last

Final evening of climbing in Skye and it had to be at Kilt Rock.  Such a classic spot that we had not made it too.  We had our eyes on The Electric Bagpipe and Grey Panther but they were bigger than our bellies.  It was great to just get one climb done in such an awesome place :)

Emma pulling through the final moves of Grey Panther, HVS***

Classic Kilt Rock in the background

Lovely sunset over the Quraing

First trad fall :)

Rubha Hunish is becoming a great evening crag, and with only a few free evenings left at Whitewave, Emma and I are trying to tick off all the multipitch classics.

We eye up the climb of the crag, Master of Morgana, and get stuck into it.

Eying up Master of Morgana, HVS 5b***

The first pitch ambles past a small bulge to belay below a stunning series of cracks.  It is the first 5b for both of us so the slightly overhung cracks above seem a little daunting.  Tentatively, I lead off and jam my way through the crux to the final move which involves a "grapple with the final crack above".  I love the feeling of tension as you climb through the crux which all evaporates as you find that huge final jug.

Emma, eyeing up the 'grapple'

Emma getting to gips with her grapple.

We had one final multipitch to do at the crag which was an HVS on the right wall.  The start had some great juggy, if a bit loose holds to get going on, then I reached a Fulmer guarding her chicks.  Hmmm.  I decided to cut left and was faced with a pretty steep, footless face.  Gear in, rest, and go.  All good, then got to rubbish hands, no feet with pump starting to kick in.  I faff and fumble then the inevitable, a decent 6m whipper off and away.  It was actually pretty cool to have a good, long, first trad fall on a steep wall.  No problemo.  Tried again and same happened so decided to lower off and retrieve the gear.

Lovely hands after lowering off

Quick hike up to the top, built a belay and abbed in only to see my gear on the butress to the left.  Brilliant.  Walked back up for another shot, this time on target but the rope dropped and coiled onto the friendly Fulmer's nest.  So after some gentile rope retrieving, the gear was removed and back to the car we headed.

Fulmer guarding her chicks.

Road to Rejuvination

After such a scary and uninspiring evening earlier the week, Emma and I both need some chilled fun single pitch to get us fired up again.

Looking back towards Skye from the stunning Rubha Hunish peninsular.

We head to Rubha Hunish again, this time right to the Northern tip.  The crag ‘Non Stack’ offers pristine basult overlooking the vast Minch and Outer Hebrides on the horizon.

Seals play below us as we abseil down to a precarious ledge to climb the awesome crack of Jailbreak VS***.  It goes smoothly and as I belay surrounded by coastal flowers in the sun, I soon forget about the horrible climb days before.

Great vegetation on a sheepless spot of coastline

We pick out one more climb, Skraa VS**, which cuts across the stunning face above waves lapping over the rocks below.

Awesome rock in a stunning location

As we relax at the top of the climb, sun setting we remember why we love to climb and begin to plan the next adventure back to the formidable Rubha Hunish cliffs.

Skye sunsets....

Magic to Misery

The Knowledge HVS 5a**

Another day of work, another evening to go climb :)

This time, we explore the massive cliffs at Rubha Hunish.  A magical landscape of derelict crofting buildings, coastguard looks outs and evidence of an ancient farm and fishing industry.

The Scoop, jumps out as a must climb.  Snaking up the left arête of the cliff, this route has it all, overhangs, cracks, slabs and a soaring arête in a stunning position.  We both enjoy the route on perfect rock.

As we climb it, we notice an awesome overhang on the main face with promising break in it.  “I wonder who has wriggled up through there”.  Back at the base, we consult the guide and size up the route.  The Knowledge, is its name and we step up to the challenge.  Easy climbing leads to the overhang.  An exciting combination of bridging, fist jamming and breath holding sees me through to bring up Emma.  I continue out left onto the arête again, however this time, traverse right to make an airy unprotected reach to the final hold.  Awesome!

2245 at the top of the climb :(

Two great climbs, now just an easy VS to carry out bags up was required.  The climb promised “a soaring arete line in a stunning position". As I inch up the first pitch, I pass loose hold after loose hold.  I place gear in hollow cracks and flakes and slowly my composure vanishes.  Images of me hugging a detached rock as I fly back from the face, in a gear popping calamity race through my head.  I lose it.  It takes me one hour thirty to lead the thirty meter pitch, finally slumping at the belay, on an admiralty cool saddle protruding from the main face.  My watch reads 2230 as belay Emma up shivering and doubting my cracked belay bollard.

Emma enjoyed it just as much as me. We summon a burst of enthusiasm to get up the final crack, which on a normal day would be a joy to lead.  Not today.  We coil the ropes and race back to the car arriving at 2315, feeling pretty sorry for ourselves.  In the car we both feel pretty disheartened and the last thing we want to do again is climb.