Maraudering Minch Mariners

As the sun sets and the moon rises, Rich and I make our first paddle strokes of a truly magnificent 4 days.

We set out from Uig on Skye, to stay at the Lookout bothy near Rhuba Hunish.  The bothy started life as a coastguard lookout hut, then morphed into a whale watching station before its current use as an awesome, accessible hut. 

We start early from Rhbha Hunish and head out towards Fladda Cuian for lunch, escaping a moody Skye off our sterns.

We speed along, enjoying great downwind conditions during the seventeen kilometer crossing to the Shiant Islands.  We tackle the crossing around slack water, allowing our course to drift off, then back on, as the fierce spring tide turns.

We expect the small shepherds hut on the 'Shiants' to be locked; however, are ecstatic when we push the door ajar.  We enter cautiously and slowly convince ourselves that we can stay and it is not in fact someones house.  What an amazing find!

We delve into the visitors book and discover that the island has been host to a huge range of people; from archaeologists and lichenologists to people just escaping the hubbub modern day life.

 With its remote, timeless feeling, we certainly felt its appeal.

The Shiants comprise of 3 main islands, two of which (seen above) are joined by a stunning pebbly tombolo, all containing arches and caves waiting to be explored.

We venture onward, across to South Harris, meeting a pod of playfull poipoise, fishing in the strengthening tidal stream.

The coastline and mountains look stunning in the perfect conditions and we explore all the nooks and crannies before stopping on the island of Scalpay to camp.

We erect tents, eat and swim in the sea, enjoying life as the sun moves across the sky over the Outer Hebrides.

With our explorer hats on, we dash up to the summit of Scalpay, rewarded by possibly the best sunsets on the Outer Hebrides. 

With the end in sight, we paddle the remaining six kilometers to Tarbet, enjoying mirror pond conditions.  We arrive and savoir a leisurely coffee, before boarding our whale spotting ferry ride back to Skye.

This sea trip wasn't about banging out the miles.  It wasn't about surviving scary over falls or gale force winds.  It was about enjoying time with a good friend and exploring some of Scotland's incredible remote islands.

Mull circumnavigation

160km, 3.5 days and lots of amazing places.

Leaving Amy's house just south of Oban to start a solo circumnavigation of Mull.

Progress thwarted at Lady's Rock by strong opposing tides and winds.  Early lunch saves the day.

Tasty battered mackerel in Tobermory to end a great 1st day.

Day two ventured around the northern tip of Mull and ended on the awesome, Treshnesh isles.

The islands were rammed with Puffins, Shags and bunny rabbits.

Every evening involved lots of fun with tides, weather and spots to explore next.

Day 3 started with a good explore of Fingles Cave, which you can paddle right into and enjoy the incredible geology.

The beach on the beautifull Iona was too inviting to pass. 

Time to explore Iona and admire the Abby.  The fIrst monastery was built in 563 whan Columba came over from island to spread Christianity to the Pics and Scotts. It's also said to be the burial site of Macbeth

I camped on the Southern edgs of the Ross of Mull and rose early to paddle back to Amy's house befor the forcased force 7's arrived.

There is something really apealing about a circumnavigation. Possibly the defined challenge?  Putting an islands scale in context? Or a logistically simple trip?  I love doing them and am excited for the next one.  Greenland anyone?

3 days, 3 evenings, 3 climbs.

Eating cake and sipping tea at the end of a day at the lodge with the sun pitching onto the Northern Corries, it is hard not to get inspired to squeeze a quick route into the evening.

This week, everyone was keen for the corries so we got tons done.  Day 1, Rachael and I climbed Damnation, Tuesday, Rory and I climbed Edgewood and finally Laura and I climbed Fallout Corner on Wednesday.

Stunning climbs and only a hour from Lodge to crag.

Happy days!

Shadowing in the sun.

This week I had the opportunity to shadow a Glenmore Lodge intermediate course run by Dave Rossetter.

With super low water levels, Dave had to work pretty hard to find water.  The first day we spent on the Spey, analysing the client needs and wants then improving the technical aspect of their paddling.  This ranged from driving with their feet to how the top hand effects boat direction during maneuvers.  All very interesting stuff. 

Nightwatch had a training day on the Tuesday when tactical ideas were introduced on the River Tay so I rejoined the group on Wednesday.  This day we spent combining the previous two days of knowledge into a river situation on the Middle Morriston.  River running tactics were discussed, as was altering your boat direction mid-rapid as well as a good old play at the get on hole.

Day four was spent on the amazing river Garry.  This, for all, was the highlight of the week.  Good water, bright sunshine and loads of cool features to play in.   With so many different styles of rapids and the ability to walk up and have another go meant everyone had plenty to get stuck into. The were lots of swims, t-rescues and roles, as everyone was pushing their kayaking to the limit.

In these Alpine conditions, it is hard not to have a good day on the water.

Thanks Dave for a great week and everyone on the course for the fun times.

Adventures with Mum and Dad.

Bird watching during a walk round Loch Morlich.

Tackling the fearsome Knockandubh rapids on the Spey

Relief after surviving a great run down the Spey

Stunning weather on the west coast.

Exploring the stunning beaches of Red Point just south of Gairloch.

Soaking up the west coast in all its glory.

Pentland paradise

Day 1 - Gills Bay past Dunnet Head

After a great Open Water Navigation and Tidal Planning course at Glenmore Lodge, I was supper psyched to put my new skills into action.  Erin Bastion and I had a few days off, so a plan was hatched to head to the North East coast and explore the Pentland Firth.  Famous for having some of the strongest tides in the world, it seemed the perfect place to test our new found skills.

Erin enjoying perfect conditions round Dunnet Head.

We reach Gills Bay with a scorching sun above and decide to enjoy a nice coast hugging paddle past Dunnet Head. We bounce our way through the Merry Men of Mey and pass under the towering cliffs at Dunnet Head as the tidal flow races on.  We round the cliffs into Dunnet Bay with one thing on our minds, a warm brew then dinner.

Day 2 – Skirza, past Duncansby Head, round Stroma to John O’Groats

Next up, Duncansby Head.  We heard tails of boily eddies, crashing waves and raging tidal streams, so naturally we had to go and check them out.  As we slide onto the water at 6pm, we share a ‘this is going to be a scary day’ look.  Slowly, the tidal stream increases and in no time we are approaching ‘The Knee’, an infamous sea stack, guarding Duncansby Head.  The noise hits us first.  An ominous rumble from distant breaking waves.  Then the sight.  White tips of the tidal race splattered on the horizon line like galloping white horses.  We are pulled toward them as fear oozes across our bodies.  As back paddle, I nobly ask Erin if she wants to go first.  She does (thank goodness).

Happy Erin after a great play session on the Duncansby Head tidal race.

We paddle with all our might, clenching the paddle as we bow to the waves crashing over our heads.  We reach the eddy breathing hard and have time to take stock.  Water charges past us like cars on a motorway.  We feel powerless.  Slowly, confidence grows inside us and we begin to play.  We break in and out, ferry glide and surf the pulsing waves as smiles grow but the huge breaking wave at the top eludes us.  Maybe next time…

We push on north across the inner sound out to Stroma.  The tide encourages us on until we reach the beach eager to explore the deserted houses.  Birds erupt into life as we venture onto the island, past a tired old boat, towards one of the many stone ruins abandoned in the late 50’s.  We duck through tiny doors into the damp, gloomy rooms, imagining what living in this harsh, windswept landscape would have been like.

Landing on Stroma to have a good explore of the deserted island.

Time rushes by and we find ourselves scrabbling back into our boats to catch the final hour of tide to take us round the northern tip of Stroma.  We pass the tip and paddle hard as a head-wind develops.  We keep paddling but strangely make no progress along the coast.  A fisherman confirms our fears that we have missed the ebb tide and are now battling with building 9Kn flood tide.  Sad times!  Defeated, we cut our losses and flee back behind the island, hasterly consulting our maps for a plan B back to John O’Groats.

Back on the mainland, we make a b-line to the café.  As we sip our hot chocolates, we reflect, surprised at how quick tides change and also how strong they are.   Our respect for the Pentland grows, as we set about planning our final day in this unforgiving place.

Erin getting stuck into some tidal planning (and chips).

Always time to squeeze in some tourist time at the Castle of Mey.

Day 3 – John O’Groats to South Ronaldsay

Feeling confident and keen to stretch our tidal planning skills, we plan an ambitious route from John O’Groats to Stroma to Swona and finally over to Orkney.  We know know that epics start the night before and small errors make the difference between enjoying an amazing days riding <9Kn tides and ending up exhausted in the middle of the North Sea.

We nervously pull on the first paddle stokes of the day, happy that we are on time as we know from yesterday that there is no room for error today.

The paddle out to Stroma goes well.  We enjoy the familiar territory but are kept on edge with the unexpected swell rolling in from the north-east.  After a brief, nervous pee stop on Stroma, we venture out into the Pentland Firth heading for Swona.  Tides reach 9Kn in this crossing so we choose to tackle it at slack water.  The swell continues to increase, giving us plenty to think about as we ride the rolling house size waves.

Farm machinery left to rot when the final island inhabitants left Swona in the 50s

 Swell is crashing onto the exposed western coastline of Swona, so we sneak round the back and glide into The Haven, a natural harbour, sheltered from the battering swell.  Our tidal planning allows for plenty of exploring time, which we are grateful for as we discover lots of Swona’s secrets.  We scoff our lunch overlooking the dramatic, battered coastline, then head to the roofed houses to have a nosey.

Enjoying a tasty lunch overlooking a swell battered coastline

 To our amazement, one house is full of clutter.  Old letters, magazines, crockery and tax records cover the shelves, all dating back to the late nineteen fifties.  We have a good (probably naughty ) rummage, before exploring the island more.  We chuckle at puffins, spi on seals and promptly get chased away by Great Scewers.

Having a peak at the items left behind when the islanders finally left Swona.

Documents dating back to the 50's.

Time ticks on and soon enough we must undertake our last crossing.  Swona to South Ronaldsay in Orkney.  By now, the flood tide is easing so we make quick progress over to the shelter of the ferry terminal.  We land, thankfully find that the ferry is running and breathe a huge sigh of relief.  We made it!

Happy faces safe on Orkney.

Three days of sea kayaking in the Pentland Firth taught us a huge amount.  Our respect for the sea grew, tidal planning skills were honed and another beautiful area of Scotland was explored.

Next up, The Minch J

A Foriegn Land - Carnmor Crag

Fion Buttress, VS 4c****